Centella Asiatica: Breaking Down the Actives

Centella asiatica — also known as Gotu Kola, tiger grass, or cica — has become a staple in soothing skincare. K-beauty popularised it, and now it appears in products worldwide. But “centella” in an ingredient list can mean very different things depending on how it’s processed and which compounds are present.

Understanding the active components helps you evaluate whether a centella product will deliver meaningful benefits.

What Centella Asiatica Is

Centella asiatica is a herbaceous plant native to Asia, used in traditional medicine for centuries. It grows in tropical and subtropical regions, particularly in India and Southeast Asia.

The plant contains several bioactive compounds, but not all centella extracts are equal. Different extraction methods yield different concentrations of active components.

The Key Active Compounds

Four compounds from centella have the most research behind them:

Madecassoside

A triterpenoid glycoside with strong anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties.

Research supports:

• Reducing inflammation
• Supporting collagen synthesis
• Accelerating wound healing
• Calming irritated skin

Madecassoside is considered one of the most important actives for skincare applications.

Asiaticoside

Another triterpenoid glycoside, similar to madecassoside but with distinct properties.

Research supports:

• Stimulating collagen production
• Supporting wound healing
• Antioxidant activity
• Anti-inflammatory effects

Asiaticoside is often studied alongside madecassoside, and they work synergistically.

Asiatic Acid

The aglycone (sugar-free) form of asiaticoside. More lipophilic than the glycosides.

Research supports:

• Collagen synthesis
• Antioxidant effects
• Wound healing

Madecassic Acid

The aglycone form of madecassoside.

Research supports:

• Anti-inflammatory action
• Collagen stimulation

Why Extraction Method Matters

A product listing “Centella Asiatica Extract” could contain:

• High concentrations of active triterpenoids
• Low concentrations of active triterpenoids
• Different ratios of the four key compounds
• Additional plant components with unknown effects

TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica)

A standardised extract containing specific ratios of:

• Asiaticoside (40%)
• Madecassoside (30%)
• Asiatic acid (30%)
• Madecassic acid (varies)

TECA has the most research behind it because standardisation allows consistent study results.

Full Plant Extracts

Some products use whole plant extracts without standardisation. These may contain actives, but at variable and often unknown concentrations.

Isolated Compounds

Some products use isolated madecassoside or asiaticoside. This provides precise dosing but misses potential synergistic effects of combined compounds.

Wound Healing

The strongest evidence for centella comes from wound-healing research. Active compounds stimulate fibroblast activity, increase collagen production, and accelerate tissue repair.

This translates to skincare as support for:

• Post-procedure healing
• Barrier repair
• Recovery from irritation

Anti-Inflammatory Effects

Centella actives reduce inflammatory markers in cell studies and clinical research. This supports use for:

• Calming redness
• Soothing reactive skin
• Reducing irritation from other products

Collagen Stimulation

Both in vitro and some clinical studies suggest centella compounds stimulate collagen synthesis. However, anti-ageing effects are less documented than wound-healing benefits.

Antioxidant Activity

Centella compounds demonstrate antioxidant properties in lab studies. Whether topical application provides meaningful antioxidant protection in real-world use is less clear.

Excellent candidates:

Sensitive or reactive skin: Centella’s soothing properties help calm inflammation.

Post-procedure: Supports healing after peels, lasers, or other treatments.

Irritated skin: Helps recover from over-exfoliation or product reactions.

Rosacea-prone skin: May help reduce baseline inflammation.

Those using irritating actives: Centella products can offset irritation from retinoids or acids.

Less clear benefit:

Specific anti-ageing: Retinoids have stronger evidence for wrinkle reduction.

Acne treatment: Not a primary acne treatment, though anti-inflammatory effects may help.

Pigmentation: Not effective for hyperpigmentation.

Product Types

Serums: Often higher concentrations of active compounds.

Moisturisers: Good for daily soothing maintenance.

Sheet masks: Occasional intensive soothing treatment.

Spot treatments: For targeted use on irritated areas.

Cica balms: Thicker formulations for barrier repair.

Routine Integration

Centella works well at various routine stages:

• As a serum after cleansing
• In moisturisers as your hydration step
• As a targeted treatment on irritated spots
• Following irritating actives to soothe

Combining with Other Ingredients

Centella is compatible with most other ingredients. It pairs well with:

• Hyaluronic acid (hydration + soothing)
• Niacinamide (barrier support + soothing)
• Retinoids (can help offset irritation)
• AHAs/BHAs (can soothe post-exfoliation)

What to Look For

Standardised extracts: Products specifying TECA or specific compound ratios are more reliable than generic “centella extract.”

Position in ingredient list: Higher position suggests higher concentration.

Specific compounds named: Products listing madecassoside, asiaticoside, etc., are being more transparent.

Supporting ingredients: Complementary soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin) enhance overall effect.

Red Flags

Centella buried in ingredient list: May be present at inconsequential levels.

No specificity about extract type: Generic “centella extract” could be anything.

Overwhelming fragrance or irritants: Defeats the soothing purpose.

The “Cica” Trend

Korean beauty popularised “cica” products (from Centella asiatica). The term now appears widely in product names and marketing.

Genuine cica products: Contain meaningful centella concentrations as a primary active.

Marketing cica products: Use the term for trend appeal with minimal actual centella.

Look beyond the name to the formulation.

Common Forms in Products

Centella Asiatica Extract: Generic term; quality varies.

Madecassoside: Specific compound; presence indicates thoughtful formulation.

Asiaticoside: Specific compound; good sign.

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water: Often used as a base; lower active concentration than extracts.

Madecassic/Asiatic Acid: The acid forms; sometimes listed separately.

Price and Value

Centella is not an expensive ingredient. High-priced “luxury cica” products aren’t necessarily more effective than affordable options with good formulations.

Evaluate based on:

• Extract quality and standardisation
• Complementary ingredients
• Overall formulation
• Not brand prestige or price alone

The Bottom Line

Centella asiatica is a genuinely useful skincare ingredient with solid evidence for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. It’s particularly valuable for sensitive, irritated, or reactive skin.

However, not all centella products are equal. Standardised extracts (TECA) with documented active compound content outperform generic “centella extract” claims.

Use centella for what the evidence supports: calming, soothing, and supporting skin repair. It’s not a standalone anti-ageing treatment, but it’s an excellent supporting ingredient in well-rounded routines.